More than 25 years ago, Frederick visited Riga with his parents and found himself captivated by the city, although at the time he could not have fully understood why. Returning now, after so many years and with so much more experience of the world, he finds himself wondering what it was that he saw in Riga all those years ago.

The answer, perhaps, is that he sensed something in its character that has stayed with him ever since.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Riga was one of the great cities of the Baltic, a prosperous and cosmopolitan center of commerce, industry, culture and intellectual life. That confidence and prosperity left behind an extraordinary architectural legacy.

Today, Riga is renowned for its exceptional concentration of Art Nouveau architecture. Wander through the UNESCO-listed Old Town, where medieval spires and cobblestone streets tell more than 800 years of history, before exploring the elegant Quiet Centre. Along streets such as Alberta iela, extraordinary Art Nouveau façades, sculpted balconies and intricate details reveal the imagination and craftsmanship of the early 20th century.

These buildings are not merely beautiful; they speak of a city that was ambitious, sophisticated and remarkably open to the modern world.

The Gothic grandeur of the House of the Blackheads offers another glimpse into Riga's past, with centuries of guild history reflected in one of the city's most recognizable landmarks.

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A City Shaped by the Arts

What makes Riga especially compelling to Frederick is the connection between its architecture and its cultural life. This is a city with a remarkable tradition of opera, ballet and classical music, and one that has produced artists of extraordinary distinction.

Perhaps none has a more personal connection to Riga for Frederick than Mikhail Baryshnikov, who was born here.

Frederick was fortunate to see Baryshnikov make his American debut in New York, at the beginning of what would become one of the most extraordinary careers in the history of dance. To stand in Riga now, knowing that this extraordinary artist began his life here, creates a remarkable sense of continuity. The young dancer born in this Baltic city would eventually arrive in New York and transform the world of ballet. Having witnessed a small part of that story firsthand, it is unexpectedly moving for Frederick to encounter its beginning here.

Riga's cultural life remains one of its great strengths. The Latvian National Opera and Ballet performs in a magnificent historic opera house and presents an ambitious season. At Riga Cathedral, meanwhile, the sound of its celebrated organ fills another of the city's historic spaces, while the Latvian National Museum of Art offers centuries of Baltic art.

There is something particularly satisfying about experiencing opera, ballet, music and art in a city where the performing arts feel woven into the culture rather than presented simply as attractions.

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Taste of Riga

Riga's character is expressed just as vividly through its food. In the Old Town, traditional flavors such as smoked fish, dark rye bread and local ingredients sit alongside an increasingly inventive, Nordic-inspired dining scene.

One of the best places to experience the city's everyday culinary life is Riga Central Market. Housed in enormous former Zeppelin hangars, the market is among the largest in Europe, with stalls filled with produce, breads, pastries, fish and other local specialties. It offers a different perspective on Riga — less polished than the city's grand architecture, perhaps, but every bit as revealing of its character.

For the luxury traveler, that combination is part of Riga's appeal. Excellent restaurants, distinctive local flavors and memorable cultural experiences can all be found in a city that still feels remarkably grounded in its own identity.

Perhaps that is what returning to Riga has taught Frederick: we never really return to the same place. We return with our own history, and suddenly the place has acquired another layer of meaning.

The Riga he experienced with his parents more than 25 years ago exists alongside the Riga he is seeing today. The city has changed, and so has he, but the feeling of discovery remains.

As a luxury travel advisor, Frederick is continually searching for places that offer beauty, culture, character and a genuine sense of discovery. Riga possesses all of these in abundance. Its architecture is extraordinary, its performing arts scene remarkably sophisticated, and its hotels, restaurants and cultural experiences offer an exceptional level of quality and value compared with many of Europe's more celebrated capitals.

Most of all, Riga retains something increasingly rare: authenticity. It feels elegant without being ostentatious, cultivated without being self-conscious, and deeply European without being overwhelmed by tourism.

Frederick was delighted to experience Riga again with his husband, Kareem George, and their dear friend Joyce Hayes-Giles as they continued their Baltic journey aboard the new EXPLORA III from Explora Journeys.

More than 25 years ago, Frederick came to Riga with his parents and fell in love with the city without quite knowing why. Returning now, he understands.

It was never simply the architecture that captured him. It was the spirit of the place — cultured, resilient, elegant and quietly confident.

And after all these years, that spirit remains remarkably intact.

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Returning With New Eyes